Abruzzi (Abruzzo)

L’Aquila is the administrative center of Abruzzi, whose other provinces include Chieti, Pescara and Teramo. The region ranks 13th in size (10,798 square kilometers) and 14th in population (1,277,000). Vineyards cover 33,300 hectares, of which registered DOC plots total 11,500 hectares. Average annual wine production of 4,000,000 hectoliters (5th) includes 19% DOC, of which about two-thirds is red.

In a nation of myriad appellations, Abruzzi offers wine drinkers refreshing simplicity. The long-standing regionwide DOCs for Montepulciano and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo have been complemented by an appellation for Controguerra, which takes in 12 types of wine.

Abruzzi, which is two-thirds mountains and one-third hills, boasts highly favorable natural conditions for grapevines. Growers favor the predominant Montepulciano and Trebbiano, while growing some highly productive vines (the region has Italy's highest average yields) for bulk wines and table grapes, and experimenting in an increasingly convincing way with outside varieties.

Despite the outward simplicity of the region’s DOC system, certain details of Abruzzi’s production are worth pointing out. The native Montepulciano (not to be confused with the town of that name in Tuscany where Vino Nobile is made) is a vine of convincing character that has been winning admirers abroad.

In parts of the Abruzzi, notably in the low hills of the northern province of Teramo (where it can be referred to as Colline Teramane), Montepulciano becomes a red of irresistible character—full-bodied, even robust, with a capacity to age but with such supple smoothness that it can be eminently drinkable even when young. In higher inland areas, or from vineyards where growers have the habit of high yields, the wines tend to be lighter, often better suited to Cerasuolo, a sturdy cherry-colored rosé.

Most Trebbiano is based on the prolific Tuscan variety, which makes light, rather acidic whites of subtle aroma and flavor. A few growers work with the "true" Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (which may or may not be related to the Bombino Bianco of Apulia). A choice few have managed to make Trebbiano of remarkable depth and texture, with a propensity to develop complexity with four or five years, sometimes even more, of aging. But those fine wines are not easy to find.