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| Milan (Milano) is the administrative center of Lombardy,
whose provinces include Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Lecco, Lodi,
Mantova, Pavia, Sondrio and Varese. The region ranks 4th in size (23,861
square kilometers) and 1st in population (9,029,000). Vineyards cover 26,330 hectares, of which registered DOC or DOCG plots total 17,000 hectares. Average annual wine production of 1,430,000 hectoliters (11th) includes about 50% of DOC or DOCG, of which more than 60% is red. |
Just why the inhabitants—the eclectic Milanese, in particular—downplay local wines is hard to explain. But regional wines are often upstaged on restaurant lists by the reds of Tuscany and Piedmont and the whites of the Venezie (Veneto, Trentino and Friuli). Many of the 6 million bottles of Nebbiolo reds produced annually in the Alpine Valtellina are spirited away by the neighboring Swiss before Italians have a chance at them.
On the other hand, Lombardians do show growing signs of pride in their preferences for the metodo classico sparkling wines of Franciacorta, which have attained the status of DOCG (while the red and white wines of the zone come under the Terre di Franciacorta DOC).
Lombardy boasts some highly favorable places for vines in a region where the Alpine climate is tempered by the lakes of Garda, Iseo, Como and Maggiore in the north, and the Apennines to the south.
The region’s most productive zone, Oltrepò Pavese, also ranks as the most exploited. Much of its red and white wines are taken away in bulk or anonymous bottles to restaurants in Milan, Genoa and other cities. Oltrepò is Italy's leading source of Pinot Nero grapes, though growers let much of the supply slip away to Piedmontese and other bottlers of spumante, who issue the wines with little regard for origins.
Only a fraction of the wine produced annually in Oltrepò Pavese is sold as DOC—and then often at low prices. Unjustifiably, for some very good wines are made there, not only Pinots but robust Barbera, Bonarda and Oltrepò Pavese Rosso, plus fruity white Rieslings and Moscatos. Signs of a revival have been noted in local sparkling wines by both classical and tank methods of fermentation.
The Valtellina earns more respect abroad, and not only in Switzerland. DOCG has been granted to Valtellina Superiore and its four subdistricts: Grumello, Inferno, Sassella and Valgella. Those wines have gained favor in Italy and abroad, along with a bit of the rich and mellow Sfursat or Sforzato, which is included in the Valtellina DOC. The Superiore reds of Valtellina are among the most austere of Nebbiolos, due to the coolness of the terraced mountain vineyards, so steep in places that grapes are hauled in with baskets on cables. But the apparent lightness is deceptive, for some have the strength and stamina to improve for well over a decade.
Good wines are made in the provinces of Bergamo, Mantova and even Milano, but the prize for quality and variety goes to Brescia, which boasts a majority of the region’s DOC/DOCGs: Botticino, Capriano del Colle, Cellatica, Franciacorta, Terre di Franciacorta, Garda Bresciano and three zones that share territory with Veneto: Garda, Lugana and San Martino della Battaglia. Under Garda DOC are four wines from the Garda Classico area in the province of Brescia. The white Lugana, which can compare with fine Soave Classico in class, has been growing in stature.
Lombardy’s most admired wines of the moment are from Franciacorta. Terre di Franciacorta DOC applies to a sturdy red from Cabernet, Barbera and Nebbiolo, as well as to white wines from Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. But Franciacorta’s reputation has been built on the outstanding bottle-fermented sparkling wines fashioned by estates. Nearly a third of Italy’s bottle-fermented sparkling wine is produced in the Brescia area, but only wines from select vineyards in the zone qualify as Franciacorta DOCG.